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maisky 
Posted: 28-Jan-2004, 10:02 PM
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QUOTE (CelticAingeal @ Jan 28 2004, 03:53 PM)


Wow....those are unique flowers, Barddas. I wonder what country the plant originates in.

Transylvania, of course! laugh.gif


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Arianrhod 
Posted: 08-Feb-2004, 12:53 PM
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Hi everyone !
I was not hibernating with the bears .. altho.. this would be a great winter for it..
Just some nasty DSL issues, too boring to talk about..

Jason those are amazing blooms !
they remind me of Ladys Slipper .

I am going to try a cold frame this year, and have started some spring peas and early lettuce seeds..
Anyone else ever give this a try ??

As far a Heirloom tomatos, go, Early Girls are my favorites. We are close in zones Jason.. and some of the variteys that get big, we really do not have the length of season for, I have found most of them split and get ruined too ...
Some birdie was kind enough to deposit some yellow , low acid pear tomatos, in my yard a few years ago.. I've been making a point of gettin a few seeds from them every year..

As harsh as this winter has been.. some of my herbs are thriving...
The sages don't seem to mind the ice and snow at all.. and the creeping thymes are thriving.. I tired a contraption called Wall of Water around my rather impressive Rosemary plant.. but 4 weeks of bitter cold .. she didnt make it ..

But , the days are getting longer ........
Spring will be here soon.. I for one, can not wait to get out into the beds, and start to work..

Hope all is well with all of you..

In Service to the Dream,
Paula


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Arianrhod 
Posted: 10-Feb-2004, 12:04 PM
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barddas...
I can not remember if this was the thread.. where you said you wanted Highland Cattle or not... either way...

This Moooooooooo's for you ...
They had these at the Ligonier Highland Games this year ...

Bah I can get it to post !! Ill try later

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barddas 
Posted: 10-Feb-2004, 12:26 PM
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QUOTE (Arianrhod @ Feb 10 2004, 01:04 PM)
barddas...
I can not remember if this was the thread.. where you said you wanted Highland Cattle or not... either way...

This Moooooooooo's for you ...
They had these at the Ligonier Highland Games this year ...

Bah I can get it to post !! Ill try later

In Service to the Dream,
Paula

It never matters where one talks about the Highland Cattle! They to can fall under the green thumb unbrella! What a great bi- product they make pooh.gif !!!!! LOL!
Sorry, I couldn't resist!

I wait the images... smile.gif


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barddas 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 11:50 AM
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March is almost upon us. Which means Spring is not too far behind.
How are you preparing your garden? Have you ordered your seeds yet? Have you tilled the area for the veg. garden? Are you raking your flowerbed mulch... turning compost?????

Me, I am going to be ordering my seeds this weekend. Along with some additional flowers. I do still have some bulbs to plant, and some ferns roots to put in, that I didn't get to in the Autumn.( slacker i know....)

Also, do you think NOW is a good time to weed and feed? Before the dormant seeds have a chance to sprout.....

Is everyone waking up from hibernating with bears??? wink.gif tongue.gif
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Arianrhod 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 12:03 PM
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I JUST replied to MacFives thread ..

Today I am going to rake the mulch on the flower beds..
and lay down the first dusting of preen...

Got the cold frame ready to go.. and the early peas and lettuce are good to go , and growing under the lights, may still be a bit too tender for sub freezing temps...
But a few more sunny days, and I will have those trays out there !

I never tried this cold frame thing before ... *crosses fingers*

I have some sweet peas from a friend in SanDiego, that I am soaking atm..
and some moon flowers in peat pots...
Thats abou it I don't need a lot of flowers to put in smile.gif
Infact, I need to get next door when it warms up, and retrive what was left behind when the fence went up.. A big puddle of Larkspur got left over on the other side..
I think it would be happy behind the Day Lilly bed... time will tell ..

Ohhhhhhhhh, one thing I'd like to get are some Iris..the grinnies ate mine sad.gif

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Paula
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Arianrhod 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 12:11 PM
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I still can't get that cow to post sad.gif
anyway ... speaking of compost and by products......

With all the mirco breweries springing up everywhere..
I put a call in to one, this time of year,and ask them
If I may come get some spent barley...
Awesome spring bed dressing , for veggies and flowers..
and its FREE !!!!
so smelly too wink.gif

They allways say .. Sure and tell me the best time to be there ...
If you allways plant your veggies in the same bed.. get this stuff..
Veggies take a lot out of the soil, this really does replace a lot of
nutirents.. a good soil test never hurts either..
BUT , good earth smells GOOD and RICH ...
This stuff is like Geratol for dirt!

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Paula
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barddas 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 02:37 PM
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That is a GREAT idea!!!! We have several micro Breweries here in Cinti... never even thought of that!
So, I'll ask again.... do you think now would be a good time to pre weed and feed? And also has anyone ever de thatched their yard?
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Arianrhod 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 03:22 PM
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Absolutely start with a pre emerigent..
I got some PREEN down today, and will get a few more dustings down..
with any luck .

As for feeding, depends on what you are using...
Some processed feeds, male orgolite, and manure are HOT..
you don't want to burn any tender buds....

Time release feeds for the lawn.. would be fine now..
Such as the Scots products..

What were you thinking about using, and where, if I may ask smile.gif

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Paula
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barddas 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 03:36 PM
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My front yard. It seems to have several types of grass... When we bought the house in the late spring last year it was ok.... but after we got settled in it seems as though it mutated!!!!! LOL!

There are some areas that are very nice, some that have 'crab grass' and some that almost is barely rooted and sitting ontop of other grass... it seems as if this yard had not been taken care of very well.... soil is great! but the grass is a bit chaotic right now.... that is why I was thinking of de thatching the yard to remove the dead grass that had not ......Um..... been removed in previous mowings etc......

What would youi recommend?
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barddas 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 04:21 PM
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Here is an article I found @ http://eesc.orst.edu/agcomwebfile/garden/L...n/dethatch.html

Dethatch your lawn this spring

CORVALLIS - By summer's end, does your lawn green on top, but brown underneath? When you mow it, does it look dead and scalped? Your lawn may have too much thatch.

If you didn't dethatch your lawn in the spring, then another good time to get this chore done is early fall if you live in western Oregon, according to Tom Cook, turf grass specialist with the Oregon State University Extension Service.

If you live east of the Cascades, wait until spring, just as the grass starts to green up, generally about April for most areas.

Thatch is a layer of living and dead grass stems and roots. It is the natural consequence of a healthy lawn, explained Cook. For best results, dethatch your lawn about every one to two years, in March or April or in the early fall. Bentgrass lawns, the most common type in the Willamette Valley, are best maintained with an annual dethatching.

Regular dethatching forces buds to grow near the base of the grass stems, preventing the grass plants from being dead underneath and only green on top. Thatching frees new grass shoots to grow in thick and lush.

The easiest, most economical way to dethatch is to rent a dethatcher. Two types are available - the flail-type and the solid knife-type. The solid knife-type is better for bentgrass lawns, but may not be as readily available for rental except in larger, metropolitan areas.

Small dethatchers, sold as lawn mower attachments, are also available, but Cook doesn't recommend those, because they put tremendous strain on the lawn mower engine.

The old-fashioned, elbow-grease method to dethatch is to use a thatching rake.

Once you have rented your dethatcher, set the blades high enough so they are about 1/8- to 1/4-inch above the ground when placed on a hard surface such as a sidewalk.

"You don't want to destroy your lawn in the process of dethatching," warned Cook.

Dethatching should not pulverize the soil surfaces. Adjust the blades to about a quarter-inch above a concrete surface. Make between one to five passes through your lawn, until most thatch is removed.

After dethatching, fertilize the lawn with a nitrogen fertilizer to stimulate regrowth.

Homeowners who dethatch their lawns every one to two years will end up with about one to three pick-up loads of thatch from an average-size lawn.

"Thatch is only a problem when homeowners wait too long to dethatch," said Cook. "Dethatching regularly is just a little more work than mowing a lawn. But if you wait for too many years, removing thatch becomes a long, agonizing process. It needn't be."

The thatch can be composted or used for mulch if it is herbicide-free. If you have used a weed killer or "weed and feed" treatment in the month before dethatching, then do not use the removed thatch to make compost or mulch.

Never use clippings or thatch debris for mulch or compost if you have used a weed killer containing clopyralid. Even after composting, clopyralid remains active and can injure your ornamental plants.

By Carol Savonen, 541-737-3380
SOURCE: Tom Cook, 541-737-5449
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Arianrhod 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 07:25 PM
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For me the lawn was pretty much an after thought...
Till.. I had a company de thatch and Aerait the front..
That part is in deep shade, due to a huge gum locust..
Between the small leaves, and bad care... the lawn was dying..

Here are some great tips, from MSN...

Fertilizing
Fertilizer requirements
Lawns require regular applications of nitrogen-rich fertilizer to grow vigorously, remain healthy, and resist insects, disease, and weeds. Different types of lawns require different amounts of nitrogen over the growing season. In areas with long growing seasons, lawns need more fertilizer applications than those growing in short-season areas.

Cool-season lawns should be fertilized in spring and fall. Autumn applications are particularly important because they encourage healthy rooting and keep the grass green longer into winter. Fertilizing cool-season grasses during the heat of summer, when they are dormant and growing slowly, is not recommended.

Warm-season lawns should be fertilized in spring and summer. Fall applications can be beneficial but often encourage winter weed growth. They can also cause late growth flushes that may be frost tender in areas where the grass is of borderline hardiness.

Lawn fertilizers are available in liquid and granular forms, usually in an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. They are usually a combination of slow- and fast-acting forms of nitrogen to provide quick green-up and sustained growth. Combination products include fertilizer and an insecticide, herbicide, or fungicide.
Fertilizer labels provide recommended application rates and frequency, usually about one pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet of lawn every four to six weeks.

Applying fertilizer to lawns
Various types of hand-held and wheeled spreaders are available for applying dry fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers are usually applied through hose-end sprayers. Before using any applicator, make sure it is properly calibrated according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Dethatching, Aeration, and Renovation
Dethatching
Thatch is a dense layer of decomposing organic matter that forms in the upper levels of a lawn. It can create a barrier that slows water and nutrient penetration to the roots, gradually causing the health and appearance of the lawn to degrade.

You can remove thatch in various ways. A hand-held dethatching rake with knifelike teeth can be used on small lawns, although it is hard work. You can also rent a gas-powered dethatcher, often called a power rake or vertical mower, which slices through the thatch with rotating blades. Either technique cuts up the thatch. The dead organic matter is raked up and usually discarded.

Dethatching is best done just before the lawn begins to grow vigorously?fall or early spring for cool-season grasses, late spring for warm-season turf. Follow with a fertilizer application.

When overseeding warm-season lawns, dethatching is often done in fall to provide a better seedbed for the cool-season grass, particularly Bermudagrass.

Aeration
Soil compaction (often from foot traffic) can also reduce water penetration and harm the health of a lawn. The best way to solve this problem is to use a power aerator (available in rental yards), which removes thousands of small plugs from the turf. The plugs are either raked up or allowed to break down. The holes supply air to the roots and increase water penetration. Aerating should be done just before a vigorous growth period?fall or early spring for cool-season grasses, late spring for warm-season grasses. Follow with a fertilizer application.

Renovation
When a lawn begins to deteriorate due to heavy thatch, weeds, or disease, it can be renovated to restore its health. Renovation is easier than starting from scratch because it makes use of the original seedbed. Rototilling, soil preparation, and leveling are not necessary.

One method of renovating is to aerate, dethatch, and overseed the area. This will improve the appearance of the lawn but will not remove existing grass. The most effective way to renovate is to kill the entire lawn with a contact herbicide such as glyphosate. (Although glyphosate is considered by many to be largely benign and nonresidual, always use extreme caution when using herbicides.) Then aerate, dethatch, and reseed as you would for a new lawn.

I take a more organic approach out back , for the dog and the flowers..
I tend to spead male orgilite.. as soon as everything is established...
You dont wanna know what it is wink.gif

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Paula
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maisky 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 09:15 PM
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I have found that by not fertilizing, not watering and generaly ignoring it, the lawn doesn't require mowing as frequently. biggrin.gif
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Arianrhod 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 10:25 PM
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Funny that was my approach also...
I used to think,, if this all dies,,
MORE FLOWERS!

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Paula
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3Ravens 
Posted: 23-Feb-2004, 11:54 PM
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Alright, people! Grass doesn't grow under my oak trees, too much shade.....Any suggestions for shade tolerant ground covers, besides ivy? No, I won't get rid of the trees! laugh.gif


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